Dune, the sci-fi epic film based on a novel of the same name, is already receiving praise from critics, and has already surpassed $100 million dollars in the international box offices ahead of its American release. With a star-studded cast and intricate storyline, audiences will be surprised to learn the most intriguing part of the film; watching Oscar Isaac sport an immaculate beard. “It’s an imposing beard” stated Donald Mowat, the makeup and hair department head for the film in an interview with GQ, “It’s an important beard, if you will.”
Isaac plays Duke Leto Atreides, the father to Paul Atreides played by Timothée Chalamet, and husband to Lady Jessica, played by Rebecca Ferguson. The book, written by Frank Herbert, describes the Duke as “tall, olive-skinned. His thin face held harsh angels warmed only by deep gray eyes.” Previous adaptions such as the film released in 1984 and the miniseries released in 2000, portray the character as relatively clean-shaven, a noticeable contrast to the thick, greying beard sported by Isaac.
Mowart initially envisioned this version of the Duke as a clean-shaven noble as well. The facial hair idea was pitched by director Denis Villeneuve and Isaac himself, leading Mowart to research different noblemen with equally abundant facial hair. Inspired by the looks of Greco-Roman and Imperial Russian nobles, he cited images of Prince Michael of Kent and Czar Nicholas II of Russia as his main influences. The stylization of the Duke ultimately influenced his son’s Paul look as well.
“We kept [Paul’s] hair very wavy, a lion-like mane. He's like the young lion to the old—this mane of hair blown in the sand and the dust and the spice—but he is Lady Jessica's son. He's pale, he's statuesque, he’s beautiful, but he's got his father's hair.”
Grey coloring was added to Isaac’s beard alongside fake crow’s feet to help accentuate the age gap between him and Chalamet and support the father-son relationship between the characters. According to Mowart, the beard took an estimated 14 weeks to grow. It received devoted maintenance involving shampooing and conditioning, brushing, beard oil, and regular trimming. Together with the process of applying movie makeup, Isaac spent 35 minutes in the makeup chair each day of shooting, most to the process dedicated to the magnificent beard. An achievable process for any fan looking to mimic the well-kept Duke.
Dune comes to theaters on October 22, but with some theaters having screenings the night before, HBO Max will debut the film a few hours early as well on October 21.